Today Dishing :The NoMad Restaurant, NYC

Having just returned from a four day trip to NYC, I will post several blogs about my experience .Today I begin where I often begin, with food.

The No Mad Hotel on Broadway and 25th Street houses The NoMad Restaurant. While researching restaurants before the trip, The NoMad appeared on just about every recommended list of where to dine in NYC. Two days before the trip it even appeared in a Chicago Tribune article as one of the 40 eateries to check out in New York.

The restaurant is owned by Chef Daniel Humm and Will Guidara who also own Eleven Madison Avenue which boasts a seventeen course extravaganza which I am told is not to be missed. Knowing that seventeen courses is just too much for me, we opted instead for The NoMad.


We intentionally arrived earlier than our reservation  in order to have a cocktail in “the library”bar before dinner. With no room available in “the library” we tried the smaller standing bar area which also could not accommodate us. We then waited drink-less in the hotel lobby until our table was ready.

Our table was located in a small, dark alcove containing three other tables. The bench seats were deep and seemed too low for the table. The arrangement was uncomfortable and we requested a different table.

The NoMad atrium. Picture courtesy of The NoMad

                              
We were moved to the better lit atrium which was beautiful and provided comfortable chairs. After receiving water and a menu we waited close to seven minutes before we saw our server.  We ordered a bottle of red wine. Upon tasting the  chilled wine I mentioned to the sommelier that I wasn’t fond of chilled red wine. We then received a lengthy explanation of why the wine is chilled to 55 degrees whether you like it or not. And just for the record no other establishment we visited in New York chilled the red wine. I felt the wine education was pretentious at best.

After perusing  the limited menu we ordered the whole-roasted chicken for two with fois gras, black truffle, and brioche. The whole chicken was presented at the table for our inspection then whisked away to be plated. Our plates contained one chicken breast and the dark meat  mixed with some divine sauce which elevated the concoction to heights of culinary glee seldom experienced was served in a separate bowl. The chicken breast was down-right magnificent. I never thought I would use the word magnificent and chicken in the same sentence. But there it is.

The whole-roasted chicken for two. Picture courtesy of The NoMad

                                      
The meal was sublime. Really. Our take on the restaurant is that if you are between 25 and 40 this may be your spot. It’s fast paced and a see and be seen place. If however you enjoy a bit slower pace where conversation is not challenged by the rock music and older patrons are  not deposited in dark corners, then this may not be your place. The food however speaks for itself and almost makes a visit worthwhile.

New York Times Butterscotch Pudding

My friend Marianne forwarded  me a recipe for Butterscotch Pudding printed in  The New York Times, and although I never fancied myself a great lover of butterscotch, I am a push-over for pictures of food.  Having made many puddings previously, most of the process is the same here except for making the caramel which serves as the base for the pudding. This step does add extra time but the results are worth the effort.
                                                            

This is my finished product. The ganache is darker than the original recipe pictured below.

                                                          


Because I personally  understand no reason to ever eat  milk chocolate, I changed the ganache using  semi-sweet chocolate instead of milk chocolate.

I found the pudding to be super creamy and if possible even light, which is not a word I usually equate with pudding.

I really like the presentation and feel it would be an appropriate “company dinner” dessert.

Picture courtesy of The New York Times

Pizzeria Locale’s Butterscotch Budino ( from the New York Times)

Time: 30 minutes plus chilling

Yield: 8 servings

For the pudding:

3 cups heavy cream

1 1/2 cups milk

150 grams dark brown sugar (3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon)

5 grams fine sea salt (3/4 teaspoon)

4 large egg yolks

1 large egg

12 grams cornstarch (1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon)

4 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the ganache:

1/4 cup heavy cream

70 grams chopped milk chocolate (2.5 ounces)

Whipped cream, for serving

1. Make the pudding: In a small pot, bring 3 cups cream and milk to a simmer. Cover to keep warm.

2. In a medium pot, bring brown sugar, 1/3 cup water and salt to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally to keep mixture from scorching, until it reaches 240 degrees on a candy thermometer, about 10 minutes. The mixture should be a deep brown color and smell nutty and caramelized.

3. Immediately whisk cream mixture into brown sugar to stop the cooking. The mixture will seize. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly, and cook until smooth.

4. In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolks, egg and cornstarch. Pour a ladleful of hot cream mixture into the egg mixture, whisking constantly so the eggs don’t curdle. Pour egg mixture into the pot with the cream, whisking more. Cook for another 2 to 4 minutes, until thickened. It’s O.K. if the mixture comes to a simmer.

5. Strain mixture into a bowl or large glass measuring cup with a spout and whisk in butter until smooth. Divide among 8 serving dishes and chill for at least 4 hours until custards are set.

6. Make the ganache: In a small saucepan, heat cream until steaming. Add chocolate and stir constantly over very low heat until just melted. Strain into a glass measuring cup with a spout.

7. Pour a thin layer of ganache over the tops of the custards. You may not use all of the ganache depending on how wide your serving dishes are. Chill for at least 4 more hours to set the ganache. Serve with whipped cream on top.